Friday 12 April 2013

Lenin and the dustbin of history

This statue used to be among the greatest in the Soviet Union. Now it rests peacefully in the dustbin of history. The city which hosts the monument changed its name even before it removed Lenin from the central spot of its urban space. The name used to be Leninabad.

Khujand (former Leninabad), 21st century

Khujand (former Leninabad), 21st century

Khujand (former Leninabad), 21st century

Thursday 11 April 2013

The snow leopard

‘The rarest and most beautiful of the great cats’ – as described by Peter Matthiessen – was not supposed to be the theme of this post, nor was Matthiessen’s book ‘The snow leopard’. The book is a ‘misfit’ both spatially and temporally. Published in 1978, it covers north-western parts of Nepal. A bit too new and a bit too far from Central Asia, especially if we take the region to be defined by the five states of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. The snow leopard is, however, one of the characteristics, if not the defining feature of Central Asia. It has become an integral part of the countries' cultural heritage. The mountain cat is the symbol of at least three Central Asian cities: Bishkek, Samarkand and Almaty. It was the mascot of the 2011 Asian Winter Games, a sporting event held in Astana and Almaty. The region states are also more and more engaged in the protection of this endangered species. In a few months’ time Bishkek is to host the international forum for protection of snow leopards.

Almaty, coat of arms
Bishkek, coat of arms

Samarkand, coat of arms
Irby, the mascot of the 2011 Asia Winter Games
‘The snow leopard’ is also – in the most direct sense – a result of the recent visit to a small, community second-hand bookshop in Cambridge (http://www.amnesty.org.uk/content.asp?CategoryID=10996). The eye-catching cover, the beautiful map printed on the endpaper and the fine-looking graphic ex libris in the Art Nouveau style did their thing and here we are, reading a book by a traveller, environmental activist and novelist who, quite surprisingly, worked also as a fisherman and ship captain.



Peter Matthiessen writes: ‘In late September 1973 I set out on with GS [the zoologist George Schaller] on a journey to the Crystal Mountain, walking west under Annapurna and north along the Kali Gandaki River. (...) GS knew of only two Westerners – he was one – who had laid eyes on the Himalayan snow leopard in the past twenty-five years. The hope of glimpsing this near mythic beast in the snow mountains was reason enough for the entire journey’.
The snow leopard (Panthera uncia) is mostly known for its elusive behaviour and formidable adaptation to living in the harshest of all possible environments – the cold, high mountain ranges of Asia. Irbis, as it is more commonly known to the Russian speakers – is accustomed to living at the altitudes of up to 6,000 m (20,000 ft). Its geographic distribution covers the Hindu Kush in eastern Afghanistan and the Syr Darya through the mountains of Pamir, Tian Shan, Karakoram, Kashmir, Kunlun, and the Himalaya to the southern Siberia.
Bishkek, 2010